Category Archives: TIA

African Business Travel Writing

The African travel writing series (tag ‘Kenya Domestic Tourist’ is one that is about a couple of months old now. It’s origin was a conversation with a banker friend who had worked in Nigeria, and talked of people flying with ‘delicious’ Brookside milk from Nairobi to a land where every food item was imported and there was little in the way of a local health scene.

These, and other fantastic bar tales, may have been exaggerated, but it was an interesting led to query to inquire & get the feedback of ordinary Africans (not professional travel writers) who were visiting other African countries and get them to write about their travels, business climate and observations of life there.

So we have posts from Botswana, Cameroon, Eritrea (not a failed state), Ethiopia, Egypt & Tunisia (after popular uprisings in 2011), Zambia, Ghana, Mauritius, Morocco, Nigeria, and others in the works like Zimbabwe (described like visiting a relative who used to have money) and Senegal. A few more posts have fallen by the wayside but they may be completed one day…sometimes you have to persuade people to chat over a round of drinks, instead of an omelette breakfast.

By no means are the rules of observations absolute, as they are the varied experiences from people making unique trips. They have encountered situations like amazing courteous service, hostility for saying the wrong thing, unexpected airport taxes, varied ease of changing currencies & making phone calls home, free seating on some West African flights (no boarding passes issued), and seen beautiful & historic sights. They have also proved quite useful going by comments received (& most recently for me as a crucial last minute reminder to carry a yellow fever card to Addis).

Thanks to the various contributors to the series so far including @CarolMusyoka, @Coldtusker, @G33kmate, @Kahenya, @KKaaria @MarvinTumbo, @ZackMukewa (the latest one is from Indonesia which is not in Africa, but is an interesting popular tourist destination to benchmark against) and a couple of other contributors. These are all interesting, hardworking people (do follow them on @twitter) involved in other business endeavors and hopefully they will share more travel tales until trips to capitals of all African countries are covered.

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Guide to Mauritius

A guest post by @kkaaria after a visit to the land of the Dodo & bargains, and where good life & driving habits are the norm!

Getting There Air Mauritius offers the best rates for direct flights from Nairobi’s JKIA, but double check as prices vary during the year. It can cost as low as Kshs 85,000 during off peak and as high as Ksh125,000 (now ~$~1,250) in peak seasons. The weather in Mauritius with no extreme changes in temperature coupled with its vibrant offshore business sector makes it (depending on your vacation or business interests)- a year round destination. The Air Mauritius flight from Kenya is a once -a-week flight that fills up quite fast so you’re advised to book in time.

Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam (SSR) Airport is quite hassle-free as a recent agreement between the Kenyan and Mauritian government ensures that Kenyans do not require a Visa to visit Mauritius. While there are no unexpected taxes, you will need your yellow fever card. Also, life is pretty good in Mauritius which means they aren’t all that crazy about strangers infiltrating their haven so be prepared for more thorough procedure than at most Sub Saharan Africa countries. They might ask to see your accommodation reservation and return ticket so print & keep them close to show at immigration if asked

Business & Infrastructure: Mauritius is a pretty small Island of about 1.2 million citizens and it will take a little over an hour to cross from one end of the country to the other. Hotel airport transfers will cost you about $90 for one-hour drive. If you have not arranged for hotel transfers, taxis are available at the airport. There is always room to bargain but make sufficient allowance for you taxi trip.

Money: Change your money before travel. I could not find Mauritius Rupees (MRU) in time in Kenya so consider either transacting in dollars once you get there or travelling with another major currency (Euro, pound) currency and changing it once you get there (The Rand is also widely accepted).. The exchange rate was $1= ~MRU 28/29 which translates into circa 1MRU= Ksh 3.5. Most major banks are present in Mauritius so with a Visa card you should be able to get money (dispensed in Rupees).

Accommodation: Mauritius has some of the world’s finest hotels and resorts, golf retreats and spas . Hotels fill up very fast and tend to be a bit pricey compared to Kenya. ‘Cheap’ accommodation here will cost you at least $100 half board, while the bigger resorts (4/5 star) will cost upwards of $350 per person for half board. Depending on your reason for visiting and your schedule, you might want to look into all-inclusive packages that cover all meals and unlimited supply on selected drinks( alcoholic and non- alcoholic) as this saves you considerably on cost.

Electricity: – is very reliable in Mauritius, and you will notice that in the major towns, most houses are fitted with solar panels. There are no power outs in Mauritius (I’m looking at you KPLC). And a family of 5 (from my asking around) pays an average of Rs 1500 per month for power. They use 220/240 volts AC. Plugs vary from two round pins to three square pins Kenya-style but take an all-purpose adaptor just in case.

Communications – Get a local line if you are not roaming – those who were roaming (from Kenya) came back to ridiculous bills *muaha*.

– Orange and EmTel are the two networks in Mauritius. I got an orange line for 100 rupees, which comes with Rs86 of airtime. You can buy reasonably priced data bundles after that.

– Most hotels come with Wi-Fi as part of the package so make sure your package includes Wi-Fi. I didn’t see any cybercafés primarily but they don’t appear to be a vibrant feature compared to Nairobi. Note that, hotel phone calls can drive your bill pretty high. A 5 minute phone call will cost you about Rs800….which is ridiculous. International text messages cost RS0.60 and you can buy airtime in denominations of Rs50, Rs100 etc.

Getting Around: The transport system is quite efficient in Mauritius albeit pricey. There is no overcrowding in public transport, buses run on time, stop only at designated spots (I’m looking at you Citi Hoppa), drivers are very disciplined & courteous and observe traffic lights even at 5 A.M when they are the only car on the roads and you are running late for your flight! So you will need to check your Kenyan road issues at JKIA and pick them up when you return!

Most locals get around by bus, personal means, motorbikes or taxi. There is little traffic, every town/city has a bus service and pensioners (over 60 years) and school kids ride for free. Quite a number of folks drive around or ride motorbikes (Riders and passengers must wear helmets too). They drive on the left, give way to the right just like Kenya so it’s easy to rent a car and drive around for more flexibility and to cut costs.

There are lots of minivans shuttling tourists around. Since the minivans double as personal transport, it might be easier to get a good bargain compared to the regular taxis although prices tend to be in the same range. As always, and while Mauritius is pretty safe, be careful about what transportation you choose. Designated taxis are always recommended and you will find plenty of these outside hotels and at Taxi ranks. As of September, gas prices were for circa RS 49/litre or ~ $1.75/L.

Food & Drink: The staple food is ‘Farata’; a pan-fried flat bread served with various spicy curries. Food in Mauritius is as varied as it’s ethnic mix, derived from a population that is 60% Hindu 22% Christian 1% Franco Mauritians 3% Chinese and 13% Muslim.
Expect lots of spices, curries, chutneys, mutton, chicken, vegetables and of course seafood. Make sure you try the millionaires salad made from palm hearts. Yummy! Smoked marlin is another must try.

The main Mauritian local beer Phoenix is widely available in supermarkets, and also has lemon flavored variant. A 330ml bottle goes for about RS 25 and a 500ml bottle goes for about Rs40. The same bottle will cost you about Rs350 and up in a 4/5 star establishment. Another (less popular) brand is Blue Marlin.

Mauritius grows a lot of sugarcane and makes some good industrial and agricultural rums in their distilleries so DO try Mauritian Rum as well. They have a wide assortment of really good rums (rum cocktails/rum desserts are delish) as well as some local grape juice wines.

Depending on where you eat food can cost as little as Rs50. A single course meal at big hotels will go from Rs 450 and up. Cocktails at the larger hotels will cost upwards of Rs400 and beers upwards of Rs 300. A bottle of water in the supermarket costs Rs20-30 so budget accordingly depending on what you are up to.

Getting Around English is the official language, but Creole (derived from French) is used by everybody, and French is the most commonly spoken language. However, you will get by with English. Their major paper; ‘L’express’ contains a small English section with the major news of the day and ‘News on Sunday’ is a full English edition newspaper every Sunday. Others are Le Defi and Le Mauricien.

Mauritians are nice and friendly. In conversations, they will want to know about you, where you come from etc. and in turn they will freely volunteer any information you seek. They are also very up to date with their current affairs so a quick chat with the waiters, drivers and staff will give you a balanced opinion of ‘the news’ everyday. They receive a lot of tourists from South Africa so they tend to assume that every black person is from SA…and it can get a bit vexing! Through no deliberate effort on my part (I swear), they were willing to talk very openly about HIV/AIDS and not minding as I furiously jotted down statistics on my phone. Nice ☺

Transportation: A 4km distance journey on a bus will cost Rs 22 (Ksh70-80) while the same distance using a taxi will cost anything from Rs400 (Ksh 1500) and up. A full day car rental cost Rs3000, with an extra Rs1000 per day for a driver, and the car rental company will ask for your driving license and ID.

Mauritius is very secure, very friendly. You should be quite safe there but as usual, take the necessary precautions. Most hotels come with safes where you can keep your valuables and travel documents so make use of those.

Shopping & Sight-Seeing There’s plenty to see in Mauritius. While their beaches are littered with Coral; making it quite unpleasant to fully enjoy the beautiful blue waters and low tides, there are plenty of places to visit.

These include the famous 7 Colored Earths in Chamarel, Blue Penny Museum, Chinatown (yes), Sugar Factory Museum, Botanical gardens/Pampalemousses, Balaclava ruins, Shivala, Grand Basin, Rochester falls, Back river Gorge etc. Do have someone experienced take you around and make use of guidebooks to get the best out of it.

Make sure you take the Catamaran cruise to Ile aux Cerfs Island. The Cerf is a small island perfect for swimming, snorkeling and parasailing. It has a white sandy beach and bluest water I have ever seen my entire life. Plan with your guide so you get a chance to swim with dolphins in the ocean! It’s exhilarating!

Finally, watch a Sega dance in the evening. (a Mauritian dance with colorful flowing skirts to beautiful music by very attractive to marginally attractive ladies☺)

Depending on what you get up to, there is no limit to how much you can spend in Mauritius. It is a beautiful place to shop so heavy shoppers might spend more, and you might shop till you drop in Mauritius. There are tons of shopping malls in Port Louis (the capital) Curepipe, Grand Baie etc. If you want a good bargain, make sure to stop by the Grand Baie Bazaar where it is easier to bargain.

There are plenty of famous brand names at duty free prices in the malls if you’re into that stuff but the smaller markets also offer amazing stuff and souvenirs at great prices (again, Bargain!).

Plus there’s lots of Chinese and Indian stuff. You will get plenty of cashmere, rum, spicy teas, pearls, diamonds, hand woven silk & wool etc. for what I found to be truly decent prices after bargaining for about two hours . Also when getting souvenirs, get some Dodo bird inspired items – Dodo snow balls, Dodo fridge magnets, Dodo key holders etc. to bring back as gifts (The Dodo is a now extinct not very clever-ergo extinct- bird that once inhabited Mauritius).

Surprises in the country?: – Bargaining Again, things like car rental could be less if you can bargain harder with Mauritians who despite the free education insist that they need the money to pay for their children’s private schooling or after school tuition. I do drive a hard bargain but they were a tough nut to crack. Good luck with that.
– This is not Coke Country, but Pepsi. You will find Coca-Cola in some areas, but when you ask for a Rum & Coke that means Rum-Pepsi and when you ask for a Sprite, be ready to receive a 7Up.
– Also, dare I add, the suspender clad Mauritius policemen are very hot!! And speaking of policemen, littering in Mauritius will earn you an instant fine of Rs 1000.
– I am used to hotels serving ladies first then men second. I *think* I observed male waiters serving men first then women, while female waiters serve women first then men. I stand corrected but that is the norm at Le Meridien and a couple of other places I visited.

Summary: Mauritius is a lovely place. The weather is fantastic, not as humid as the Kenyan Coast. But their beaches are awash with Coral which puts Kenya way ahead on the beach experience; however Mauritius makes up for that with incredible service and security – a thing Kenyan establishments and staff at the Coast could learn from. So make time to visit Mauritius!

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situs gacor

rtp slot

slot gacor

Guide to Douala

A guest post
Note: A Kenya shillings converts to ~ CFA 5 (closer to 4.5)

Getting there: Kenya Airways flies three times a week to Douala and to Yaoundé. The Nairobi-Douala trip has a 45 minutes stopover in Bangui (CAR). Speaking of which, Titus Naikuni should have the staff on this route training the rest of KQ staff on the other KQ routes as they were really, really good.
Kenyan citizens need a visa to get into Cameroon. You have to make arrangements with your host for a visa before you get there. The visa application fee is 5,000 CFA (approx. 1 USD= 450 CFA).

Some tips:
• Ask your host to mail you the approved visa form by mail if possible. A scanned copy works, but the officials will require the original at the airport.
• Have with you two copies of the photo page of your passport as the visa processing officials at the airport (in Douala) will ask you to make photocopies of this for your visa processing.
• The visa itself costs CFA 50,000 (approx. $100) for a single entry visa that is valid for up to 30 days.
• You must have a Yellow Fever card. If you don’t, they will re-vaccinate you. The Santé desk had a number of poor unfortunates who didn’t have their cards who had to get jabbed again.
• You will need CFA 10,000 for exit visa / stamp duty to leave Cameroon. Note that there is no visible information on the exit visa fee (not in the visa application, or the immigration desk, or in the airport). To be fair, it is visibly posted next to the desk where you pay this stamp duty, which is at the EXIT gate. So, please reserve CFA 10,000 for exit stamp duty.

Getting Around: For the intrepid, there are many boda bodas (called “okadas”) that will take you pretty much wherever you want as there are no restrictions on where the boda bodas are allowed to go. A quick scan showed matatus, but these were few and far between in Douala. More common are cabs, which will be painted yellow to show their PSV status.

Also, there’s the unfortunately blatant, shameless shakedowns of the PSVs by cops. The driver slows down at the traffic checkpoint, the tout jumps out and gives the cops money and runs back to the car, then the driver then moves on.

Cameroon is super green and lush. If land were a woman, Cameroon would be this woman. Seriously beautiful. The roads, at least the ones from Douala to Limbe & Buea, were smooth, with no worries. Do check out the rubber and palm oil trees especially if you’ve never seen one and only read about them in Geography class or in the works of West African writers in English literature.

Business & Infrastructure: Money: You need to get dollars, and the airport has many hawkers selling and buying dollars, but you’ll get a better rate in the forex bureaus in town. Also, Cameroon restricts the amount of Cameroonian Francs (CFA) that you can leave with so make sure you change these back to dollars in town as the airport rates are quite awful. The hotel rates are even worse (e.g. 1USD:CFA425 in the hotels as opposed to 1:485 in the forex bureaus). To the best of my knowledge there is also no forex bureau in Nairobi that will change the CFAs into Kenyan shillings, so you’re stuck with CFAs if you don’t do this in-country. Standard Chartered and EcoBank have a presence in Cameroon but the StanChart ATMs dispense money only to StanChart Cameroon cardholders.

Electricity: They use 220 volts and you need a two pin circular plug for your electrical equipment. This is easy to get in Nairobi ( I got mine at Technophile Kenya)

Accommodation: Within Douala, hotel accommodation ranges from the CFA 20,000 slightly seedy and not quite clean variety to the CFA 130,000 Hotel Akwa Palace and the Ibis Hotel in Douala for a more up-market stay. However Hotel Akwa Palace has the nerve to charge you for breakfast (CFA 10,700 at their lousy 1USD: 425 CFA exchange rate) despite charging about $300 per night for a single room.

Weather: Douala in September/ October is hot, humid and thus hellish. It’s perhaps like going to a sauna in the coast while wearing a woolen three-piece suit, stockings and a wig. This weather will make you more irritable than a black mamba (it would make the Dalai Lama testy) so just remember when you find yourself losing it over some trivial stuff that it’s the weather. For this reason, you need an air-conditioned hotel room. Please note, you don’t want a room with A/C, you need a room with A/C. A bit out of Douala, I was given the choice of a room with a door lock that didn’t quite work, or a room with A/C. I chose the room with A/C over a functioning lock. Yes. It is that serious.

Food: Seafood in Cameroon is a must-eat. Try the Poisson DG (fish) with dodo (fried plantain). I also predated on the predators of the sea by eating barracuda (Delicious). Also, try the shrimp/ prawns , which Cameroon is famous for (the name Cameroon is derived from “Rio dos Camarões” or River of Shrimp in Portuguese).

Shopping: Unfortunately, there are no Chantal Biya wigs despite asking everyone I knew where to get them. You can however reproduce this look with 4 strategically placed lace front wigs, one placed about 2 inches below the other!!

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situs gacor

rtp slot

slot gacor

Guide to Cairo

A guest post by @g33kmate who made a recent visit to Cairo, Egypt for the Maker Faire Africa 2011 event.

Getting There: Several airlines fly to Egypt from Nairobi including Egypt Air, and Kenya Airways at a cost of ~Kshs. 70,000 (~$700) for a return ticket, as well as others, that may be cheaper, but not direct such as Gulf carriers and Ethiopian Airlines.

At Cairo Airport, clearing at the airport was pretty fast, there was no hassle; in fact it took less than 15 minutes from disembarking from the plane to being out of the airport.

Getting Around: There are two main types of taxis – those with meters (painted white with checked stripes on the side), and those without (usually painted black with a white line). The taxis with meters are cheaper, costing about 5 Egyptian Pounds (~Kshs. 125) for 4 KM. The ones without meters tend to be more expensive as the drivers decide on the pricing. Other transport options include government buses, as well as hotel taxis, which are very expensive (not the buses), mostly ranging from US$20 (~Kshs. 2000) and prefer to be paid in dollars.

Cairo scene

Cab drivers will try to convince you that the streets are insecure just so you can take their cab service but having walked around, I did not feel any sense of insecurity, apart from the evenings when all you find in the streets are crowds of men, but everything else looked calm, with no incidents.

The local language is Arabic with just a handful of English speakers. Most if not all of the printed press I saw was in Arabic.

Keeping in Touch: For communication, I was able to use my roaming service on both Safaricom and Airtel but ended up getting a local SIM card as it was cheaper to use. With a local provider, Mobinil, local calls cost me 90 Piastre per minute, an equivalent of ~Kshs. 22 and for international costs, there was a day I called Kenya for 4 minutes and spent about 50 pounds which is an equivalent of ~Kshs. 1,100.

As most people use their Blackberrys for internet, there are a few cyber cafes, unlike like the hundreds in the streets of Nairobi.

Where to Stay At the Baron Hotel, which is a really nice hotel that costs $150 per night. There was also Wi-Fi at the hotel.

Shopping & Sight-Seeing: Getting around each day cost about 20 pounds (equivalent of about Kshs 500). The main shopping area is downtown Cairo was at the mosques and the Pyramids and the other site to see besides the Pyramids, was at Alexandria City.

Business & Infrastructure: Electricity is reliable, and it was there every single day with most parts of the city well lit. I hear it’s cheap too and solar is not very popular!

Most of the architecture is very amazing and very old ancient Egyptian. Also, it’s amazing that the tallest building I saw was about ten storeys.

Food & Bars: The Local dish is Koshary, which is a very interesting dish of pasta, rice, macaroni, peas and a few other ingredients mixed and served with tomato, garlic and vinegar sauce. Beer is not very popular especially being a Muslim community but they take bitter tea and smoke cigarettes a whole load! The talk now is about the revolution and the life that is going to come or what is expected after Mubarak.

Local legends are everyone who was in the revolution!
Shockers: The separation of the sexes. Men are more open to hanging out and working with men, but you hardly find any women in the midst of men. Men hug and kiss on the cheek every so often before and after a conversation and the best they give with women is a handshake. This also applies to the women.

The other big surprise is how friendly everyone is. Egypt is depicted as a very unfriendly country especially as most of them don’t believe they are in Africa, but the people in Egypt are all very nice and welcoming. One word AMAZING!

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Guide to Casablanca

Guest post by MVQ on travel to Casablanca and Rabat in Morocco

Intro: If you decide to do a coastal tour of Morocco, then Casablanca is a good landing place and trains connect most cities so it is pretty easy and economical to travel around.

Some highlights/tips:

Getting there: The major carrier for the country is Royal Air Maroc and typically flights on this carrier are the fastest way into the country. Alternatives can turn what should be a 4 hour flight into a day long journey that can take you on a tour through Europe or the Middle East.

Flying from Nairobi to Casablanca, the choices are Air France (via Paris) for $1,000, EgyptAir (via Cairo) for $1,200, Emirates and Turkish for $1,500 and KLM for $1,800 and KQ/Alitalia via Rome for $3,000

Upon arrival customs is actually pretty seamless and the airport is fairly modern and easy to navigate. From the airport there are two options—a taxi or the train. The train into Casa takes about an hour and costs 35 MAD (~USD 4), while a cab will run you somewhere north of 100 MAD. I took the train and it is a pretty smooth trip—as long as you don’t miss your stop (don’t be afraid to ask people for help.) Depending on which train you are on and where you are going, to get into Casablanca you will get off at Ain Sabaa (for transfer to Casa Port) or Casa Voyageur. The ticket to Rabat is only MAD 5-10 more, and the distance from Casablanca to Rabat takes about an hour to cover by train. There are food carts on the train for all destinations where you can grab food and water so don’t worry too much about getting a snack from the airport.

Getting around: Casablanca and Rabat are both walkable cities (during the day) but please watch your things and only carry bags that zip (try to minimize what you carry around as pick pocketing is not uncommon.) When traveling long distances there are two cab options, the Mercedes cabs and the colored cabs (blue for Rabat, red for Casa.) I overwhelmingly prefer the colored cabs as they are metered (ask for them to “turn on the counter”,) cheap, and generally safe. One thing—the cab system is, err, “over optimized.” Cab drivers will pick up multiple fares along the way so don’t be alarmed if random people hop into the cab during your ride. This scared me at first but is common practice (and helps keep cab ride costs low.) For ~10 minute rides expect to pay less than MAD 20, for longer rides (~30 minutes) expect to pay MAD 50.

Language/ Communications: The principle languages in Morocco are French and Arabic. You can get by with English but this will be a challenge so get a friend or a phrasebook! Even for just a stay for a couple of days I recommend getting a local SIM card. The card costs MAD 30 (I believe) for 2G and MAD 60 for 3G (this enables you to get online.) There is no registration requirement for SIMs and the whole process of getting a SIM and credit takes less than 2 minutes. Maroc Telcom is the most ubiquitous provider and you can find a shop almost everywhere (train stations, strip malls, markets, etc.)

Lodging: You have the option of Riads and hotels. I didn’t stay in a Riad but as I understand they are very similar to upscale hostels. You will find that many are family run, and some of the best traditional restaurants are in the Riads. As for hotels, most major chains exist. In Casablanca I stayed at the Sheraton, which is walkable to the Casa Port train station (gare), and only three blocks from the Medina/ old city and the central commercial area. In Rabat I stayed at the Royal Tulip. The hotel was great—there is reliable internet, a nice gym that overlooks the Bouregreg river, and it felt very safe.

Food & Bars: Try your best not to buy food in the hotels. You will pay 10x the cost of buying food outside and there is always a food option nearby. Street food is decent and you can get a fish sandwich in the street for MAD 5-20 ($1-4) depending on where you are. Also, in Casa you can pick up a Beignet for MAD 2-5 (less than $1) In Rabat I recommend Villa Mandarine—they have the most amazing Tagine and (like in most places) you can get great cous cous on Friday nights. In Casa, I would skip the Pizza Huts and KFCs that are ubiquitous and try out a local restaurant near the marina. Rick’s Café is very popular, I didn’t go there but feedback is that it is very expensive and only worthwhile if you are a huge Casablanca (movie) fan.

Shopping/Site Seeing: Overall, Rabat is much more exciting than Casablanca! In Rabat I recommend the following:
• Medina: Check out the old city, pick up locally styled outfits and other souvenirs, and get a sense for the buzz of old Rabat. You can spend 1-2 hours exploring the windy streets and checking out stalls. If you decide to buy things always haggle—the starting price is typically 1.5 to 2x what you should actually pay. Never accept the first price!
• Oudayas: Across the street from the Medina, you can walk through the old fort and the iconic white and blue painted walls
• Beaches: Near the Oudayas are several beaches. Bring your bathing suit and enjoy the waves! You can get surfing lessons if you are more of an adventurer or just relax.
• Other destinations in Rabat: Royal palace, Grand mosque, Dar Es Salaam golf course, gardens

In Casablanca be sure to check out their Medina (very different from Rabats!) and the Hassan II Mosquee (when you tell the cab driver, say “moskay” they won’t understand “mosque” and can take you to the wrong place!

Summary: Morocco is a fascinating place and just visiting Rabat and Casablanca certainly doesn’t do it justice! You must get to Marrakech, Fez, Agadir, Oujda, etc. Wherever you go though, get to know the locals (they are generally quite kind and open), try the food (including the street meat!), and enjoy yourself!

Also Morocco in Pink from Digital African

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