Monthly Archives: November 2011

Guide to Dar es Salaam

A guest post by Josiah Mugambi – @JMugambi to a neighbouring coastal city with good manners and good food, proper Swahili and while Ujamaa is strong, so is government corruption as in Kenya

Getting there: Transport options from Nairobi include road (driving a car or taking a bus for the over 900KM journey) and air with Kenya Airways / Precision Air which is a 1:15 duration. There are at least two flights each way daily, with a return ticket going for about 410$.

The Julius Nyerere International Airport is smallish, and when busy, the queues for arriving passengers waiting to clear with immigration can be long. However, they seemed to be able to handle the large number of arriving passengers reasonably well. On this day, there was a large number of people waiting to buy their visas on arrival, however, I did not need one as East African citizens ordinarily do not need a visa for stays of less than three months. Visa requirements are easily found online

Once out of immigration, it is possible to change money at one of the few forex bureaus at the airport. (1 USD was equal to about TSh 1770 at the time of my stay)

Getting Around: Taxi’s are readily identifiable, mainly white with yellow or green stripes. A cab (most if not all are not metered) from the airport to the Oyster bay area costs about 35-40k Tsh (approximately 20-25 US$) meaning that one to town would be slightly less as it is closer from the airport.

Most people use the “dala dala” public transport vehicles to get around; which are clearly distinguishable. The ‘City Bus’ operates several routes, which are clearly indicated on the front and side, with fares (nauli in Swahili) starting at 300-450 Tsh ( ~ $0.20) for most city destinations.

‘Bajaja’s – three-wheel Bajaj scooters are another popular form of transport for those who want added flexibility without paying for a taxi. They are however sometimes driven rather recklessly. For shorter distances, some may opt to walk but the hot and humid weather can be a disincentive.

Communications: I was able to use both my Kenyan phone lines in the country. I avoided roaming data (usually expensive anywhere in the world) as much as I could. For internet access, one can get a data modem from any of the four local mobile operators (Vodacom, Airtel, Tigo, Zantel) with Wi-Fi available in some locations (mostly restaurants). I noticed that the mobile market in Tanzania is more evenly spread among the four major operators: Vodacom 37%, Airtel 30%, Tigo 25%, Zantel (Zanzibar focused) 8% (2010 stats from CGAP)

Where to stay, What to eat: If you are in the central business district for business, it would be probably wiser to stay closer to town. Reasonable hotel rates start at $100-150 depending on location, and hotels around Sea Cliff area tend to be more expensive. I stayed at the Colosseum Hotel & Fitness Centre mostly because of the state-of-the-art gym. I also liked the Mediterraneo after visiting it briefly with friends.

Any (modern) economy is heavily reliant on electricity and Tanzania is no exception. I noted that the hotel I was staying at had a backup generator that seemed to go on nearly every night, implying that demand for electricity at peak hours was very high.

One thing that I loved about Dar was the quality of food. Many Kenyans go to Tanzania and say that things happen slower there, but when it comes to food, it’s probably for a good reason as most of the time, the food is freshly cooked and delicious (and served in good quantities too!).

I loved the Mshkaki (a form of Kebab, either roast beef or fish) which one can order with lightly roasted bananas – absolutely delicious. If there’s anything I miss from Dar it is this! I’m not one for beer, but the average price of a bottle starts at around 1500 TShs ( less than $1), and some (familiar) sodas (Coke, Fanta, Sprite) are sold in 350 ML bottles.

All in all, daily one can expect to spend anything from $10 to over $45 depending primarily on your mode of transport and choice of food.

Language, Stuff to do: Being from Kenya it was not too difficult to communicate in Swahili to locals, though their grasp of the language exceeds that of most Kenyans. I had an interesting conversation with a traffic police lady (after we got pulled over for a routine check) and she said that they (Tanzanians) get really amused about how Kenyans speak Swahili. They are very conscious about grammar while in Kenya we tend to gloss over poor Swahili (unless one is doing an exam of course).

I visited the Mlimani City Complex which is an interesting development bordering the University of Dar Es Salaam, with an office complex hosting multinational firms, a shopping centre and a residential park. This is a popular shopping location outside of the city centre with a large supermarket as well as a theatre and several banks. The Sea Cliff area is popular, especially for tourists who buy African art, and Tanzanite stones.

I noted that many security guards are armed with a shotgun which lent some semblance of security (unlike in Kenya where your ordinary watchman would have at most a piece of wood to defend himself). Walking around is not advised in lonely places, especially on the beach.

As with many coastal areas, the main leisure activity would be visiting the beach. I especially liked Kunduchi beach, situated north of the city centre, with its white beach and from which several windsurfers took advantage of the excellent conditions to show off :). A weekend excursion would be to take a short trip to Zanzibar by boat, but I was not able to do this.

Economy and Society: In Kenya, there is a lot of talk about corruption, but even in Tanzania many of the locals complain about the corruption that is rife in government. There have been several corruption scandals lately and my taxi guy was rather emotive about the subject.

Mwalimu Julius Nyerere is still highly regarded by many, though some say that he held back economic development somewhat (compared say to Kenya). I however admire the level of social integration present. Unlike in Kenya, there is a distinct sense of unity (possibly due to Julius Nyerere and Ujamaa) and ‘negative ethnicity’ is virtually unheard of – Something Kenya could learn from its neighbour!

Also, unique, I noticed children holding ‘School Children Crossing’ signboards at the zebra crossings helping fellow students cross the road, and that drivers respected their right to cross :). Tanzanians are generally courteous and respectful, (a sign of ujamaa?), and generally follow traffic lights and rules – another thing I liked about Dar.

All in all, a good place to visit, especially on holiday.

Shares Portfolio November 2011

Comparing changes to three months ago and a year ago, investor confidence has dipped further, and the Kenya shilling is even weaker, having fallen past the Kshs. 100/$ to the dollar before last week’s drastic rate hike by the Central Bank brought the rate back to to 95, but which also pushed most commercial banks loan rates to 25%

The Stable
Barclays Bank ↓
Bralirwa Breweries (Rwanda) ↑
British-American Investments (Britak) ↓
Diamond Trust Bank ↓
East African Breweries (EABL) ↓
Kenya Airways (KQ) ↓
Kenya Commercial Bank (KCB) ↓
Kenya Oil Company (Kenol) ↓
Scangroup ↓
Stanbic (Uganda) ↔
Uchumi Supermarkets ↓

Review: The Portfolio is down 2% in the last three months as is the NSE 20 Share Index, which is also down 2%.
– Best performer: Bralirwa 24% (only share that has appreciated in this Qquarter)
– Worst performer: Britak -38%, Kenya Airways -25%
– In: Britak
– Out: None
– Increase: KCB, KQ
– Decrease: None

Other
Splits: None
Bonus: None
Dividends: Interim from Kenol, and Barclays, and it was pleasant to be able to encash a Bralirwa Rwanda dividend cheque over the counter at KCB in Nairobi – unlike with Stanbic (UG) Uganda, that takes about a month clearing and the bank charges can take a huge chunk out.

Events:
– Safaricom shocked with a 47% drop in half year profits to September 2011.
– Kenya Airways got shareholder approval for a rights issue to finance fleet expansion in the next few months (Said to be at Kshs 21/= which is about where the share is now.
– Tanzania has the Precision Air IPO and Tanzania Breweries sale but the mixed signals – welcoming/shutting out East Africans, and not getting proper approval from Kenya’s capital markets means there’s likely to be little cross-border participation once results are announced.

Data: The NSE now has a shares app for Android mobile phones and signed a partnership creating two new FTSE NSE indices.

African Business Travel Writing

The African travel writing series (tag ‘Kenya Domestic Tourist’ is one that is about a couple of months old now. It’s origin was a conversation with a banker friend who had worked in Nigeria, and talked of people flying with ‘delicious’ Brookside milk from Nairobi to a land where every food item was imported and there was little in the way of a local health scene.

These, and other fantastic bar tales, may have been exaggerated, but it was an interesting led to query to inquire & get the feedback of ordinary Africans (not professional travel writers) who were visiting other African countries and get them to write about their travels, business climate and observations of life there.

So we have posts from Botswana, Cameroon, Eritrea (not a failed state), Ethiopia, Egypt & Tunisia (after popular uprisings in 2011), Zambia, Ghana, Mauritius, Morocco, Nigeria, and others in the works like Zimbabwe (described like visiting a relative who used to have money) and Senegal. A few more posts have fallen by the wayside but they may be completed one day…sometimes you have to persuade people to chat over a round of drinks, instead of an omelette breakfast.

By no means are the rules of observations absolute, as they are the varied experiences from people making unique trips. They have encountered situations like amazing courteous service, hostility for saying the wrong thing, unexpected airport taxes, varied ease of changing currencies & making phone calls home, free seating on some West African flights (no boarding passes issued), and seen beautiful & historic sights. They have also proved quite useful going by comments received (& most recently for me as a crucial last minute reminder to carry a yellow fever card to Addis).

Thanks to the various contributors to the series so far including @CarolMusyoka, @Coldtusker, @G33kmate, @Kahenya, @KKaaria @MarvinTumbo, @ZackMukewa (the latest one is from Indonesia which is not in Africa, but is an interesting popular tourist destination to benchmark against) and a couple of other contributors. These are all interesting, hardworking people (do follow them on @twitter) involved in other business endeavors and hopefully they will share more travel tales until trips to capitals of all African countries are covered.

Guide to Jakarta

Tales of kindness, Spa’s, Obama, smoking, the largest McDonald’s in the world, all in a guest post by Zack Mukewa. (Note, The Indonesia Rupiah is Rp. 8,900 to 1USD. So fairly Rp 100 to One Kshs. is fine).

I had a very low opinion of Jakarta and Indonesia in general before going there, but I was pleasantly shocked in Jakarta which is the capital of the expansive Republic of Indonesia

Getting There: From Nairobi to Jakarta, you can take two or three flights, three in some cases depending on the airline, e.g. Emirates, Qatar, Gulf Air – and cost about $1,300 – $2,000. On average it takes five hours from Nairobi to Dubai and a further 8 – 12 hours to Jakarta dependent on route and airline. This matters as some passengers may have to wait for up to 8 hours for a connecting flight from Dubai. But not to worry, as the duty free airport at Dubai is interesting enough. Just avoid ‘The Gallery Lounge’ near Gate 210 – where in an attempt to kill time the Kenyan way, I regrettably had a single Heineken for US$29!

There are several countries who’s residents are allowed to obtain visa to Indonesia at the terminal on arrival, including South Africa and Egypt from Africa. However, for others, they have to get visas at embassies in their home countries.

This is a short process, 15 minutes though there are few points where queues can delay you. Beware of some Airport crew ready to make a quick buck if you seem clueless, as happened to a Ugandan pal (pun intended).

Getting Around: Outside the airport you will find two types of taxis… Blue and Blue/Green both of which are metered. Green taxis are thought to be the safer and are quite cheap. Indonesia produces its own oil (hence lower fuel costs) so for a distance like Karen – City Centre – Westlands you will pay fairly 15,000 Indonesian Rupia…about Kshs. 150! Most Cab guys speak some English…not so good but you can communicate. Useful words are Selemat Pagi/Maalam/Sore – Good Morning/afternoon/evening and also Terima Kasih/ Thank you. Say those and mention English, they will find someone good at it to help.

Jakarta City is beautiful… Much like New York in impression. It’s fast, as they have lanes for public shuttle buses that arrive every minute, and they fill to the brim. No one pickpockets here, and they were shocked when I told them about our Nairobi bus stop tales. Jakarta also has extremely high humidity, and with temperatures in the 32-38° range, you should dress reasonably.

Hotels: Hotels are varied; I stayed at the NAM Center and at the Aston Hotel – and at commercial hotels in Indonesia, it’s common to find everything ensuite. Also they have karaoke bars which are a big thing over there, piano bars, spas, gyms. However beware of the spa…especially if the attendant asks your marital status..that is all!

Jakarta is a big City, with a total population of about 12 million people. Observing, the streets you can quickly gather the leaders of corporate Indonesia are based here. Lot’s of black cars are dot across several islands, and there are boats at most coastlines for those who wish to rent, some yachts too belonging to those with offices in the city .

Shopping & Sight-SeeingThere are many places to visit in Jakarta, starting with the National Monument . From high up there you can see the State House, many Capitol Buildings and other interesting sites in Jakarta. You can also visit the school which (US President) Barack Obama attended, and they have a monument erected there. Being a black man in Jakarta, it seemed expect everyone wanted to take a photo with me – and I never saw any other black people other than those in the group I came with…Maybe I should pull an Obama senior stunt, in that side of the world 🙂

The City has high end shopping zones and your basic shoppers zones. For comparison, if you go to Indonesia Shopping Mall in upmarket Jakarta, you will buy their national shirt called Batik for Kshs. 10,000, but if you go downtown at Block M, you will get it at Kshs. 1,000.

Being in an earthquake prone zone, the city is built to accommodate earthquakes. Yet they also have high rise buildings as high up as 60 floors, and are building a subway under the main road infrastructure.’

Food & Bars: Sad to say, the food is horrible! I ate rice and spaghetti for all meals, breakfast, lunch, dinner, and I was thin by the time I left. The food does not have soup and is cooked in a funny, typical South Asia stuffy way. Not to worry as there are other (pricey) options, including one of the largest McDonalds outlets in the world which is found in Jakarta, and a whole lot of Pizza Huts and KFC outlets too. For sports bar fans, check out Manchester United Sports Bar… it is said Sir. Alex has been there. Sorry, Arsenal fans, I didn’t see anything for you – guess all the fans there hanged LOL!

People smoke a lot in Indonesia – Remember the stories in the news & internet about a 6 year old chain smoker? That was from there; Samata Island! As a matter of fact, in most social places you will be given free cigarettes after buying a beer. Heineken costs about Kshs. 300-700 in most places I visited.

Summary: I could easily not stop writing about Jakarta, and will have some more tales at my blog. Keep checking here though, for a guide on Bandung and Bali which will l be uploaded soon.

Jakarta is a beach capital, its a corporate capital, its a shopping capital. It has the kindest of people, really, the kindest human beings are from Indonesia – and it has absolutely hot women. Jakarta is out of this world! Indonesia Airlines has a tagline that says Indonesia, Unforgettable! – and it is true. Unforgettable.

ALN 2011 Day 3

The final day of ALN, brought calls to embrace politics, more lessons in banking & political leadership, an update on the status of the network, and appearances by 50Cent and African royal(think ‘Coming to America’)!

(Excerpts, not the full-day proceedings)

Needs and Leads (N&L): This was a mid-morning session for attendees to find tangible ways to collaborate with other ALN members. Each speaker had three minutes to talk about their work and their needs, without using slides or PowerPoint to make a connection. They included

  • Mike of Fenix International said that they (in partnership with MTN) had developed a solar power set in Uganda, which small businesses could use to charge other batteries and devices for members in a community. It retails for ~$150 and can break-even for the owner/investor in about 6 months. They hope to scale up and introduce the device to millions of others in Rwanda and South Africa and are looking for entrepreneurs to distribute the devices.
  • The second N&L speaker was from a private equity business in Johannesburg that has a team of over 400 programmers working on customer development & billing application software for the private sector, telecommunications companies, large SA banks, and the Government (SA’s revenue agency). They are seeking to grow in Kenya by finding leads into Kenyan businesses in software development, telecommunications and the government.
  • Lindsay of Sanergy talked about the slum residents in Nairobi who don’t have access to sanitation. So her company builds toilets for them, collects sewage, and converts this to fertilizer and energy – making money as an independent power and fertilizer producer. There is great potential in this and she is seeking fertilizer distributors, Kenya government officials (in sanitation & standards) and micro-finance banks and institutions.
  • Laila runs a property firm in Nairobi and is the Chairlady of the Kenya Property Developers Association, and focuses on urban development in cities. They have mobilized $25 million to develop middle-class properties, and with an IRR of 30% where they have exited – and they are seeking to mobilize $100 million as risk capital and mezzanine finance to develop low costs housing, budget hotels in East Africa, as well as senior private equity professionals, to become a partners & board members.
  • Arjuna from the Omidyar Network, lives in Silicon Valley and, is looking for people who want to change lives in Africa to bring their ideas forward.
  • Ann is working to establish meaningful social games for change and reach young people to work on projects around wealth and prosperity, and she is looking for experienced Africans in games design, and social innovation projects as well as partners, investors, and interns.
  • Andy from USAID spoke about the overlap of needs and mutual interest between Africa and America and are they are seeking young people to engage with, and help them craft meaningful, impactful programs for Africa and be sounding boards of feedback.
  • Joseph from Congo grew up in a refugee camp in Uganda with limited schooling & learning resources, and is now a graduate of the ALA. He, and other refugees, co-founded a youth organization – Coburwas which looks at the common needs of refugees which are common across and now wants to expand the education program and help kids finish school. By 2010 85 students, and 15 were completing A level, including 5 girls – the first ever to complete school from the camps. He needs mentors to advise on foundation decisions, and need $13,000 of funds to take 100 kids to high school for the next one. Within 10 minutes, another attendee (Colin Gayle of Bounce Back Media) got on the stage and told Joseph, that a benefactor (Curtis Jackson, a.k.a 50 Cent) had committed to funding the entire $13,000.
  • Debbie of Aecom/Stanford Business School focuses on entrepreneurship and innovation in emerging markets, especially at the bottom of the pyramid, helping people to deal with poverty issues that can scale. They are seeking entrepreneurs (in Africa, Asia, and Latin America) who would want assistance from Stanford and are willing to do case studies for research
  • Swaady from Cote d’Ivoire has set up a luxury tea company and is seeking customers, funders, and partners.
  • Isis from inMobi spoke of the scalable potential for mobile advertising to the 500-600 million phone users in Africa as that will be the main way people access the net. She is seeking talented women to work at the company.
  • Nuradin a former Somali refugee and now Dutch citizen is the MD of a company that distributes Massey Ferguson tractors in Africa. They plan to set up agriculture learning centers in Africa, on 100-hectare model farms to teach farmers how to use tractors and implements and he is looking for partner dealers in Africa.
  • Monica has set up an agro-processing company working on alternative foods (non-Maize) for the larger populations and is seeking people to assist in branding, supply chain & distribution strategies.
  • Nena of Blackbox noted that there is little research done on young women consumers in Nigeria, no one knows them, or how to market to them. So they want to do a study for women 0-18 what are they doing, needs, gaps in services, and data from this will be used for brands to do product development and governments to provide better service. They are seeking funding for the study, people interested in buying the study, and others who may wish to run similar studies in their own countries.
  • Oliver from LGT Capital invests $200,000 – $1 million in expansion business models in education, health, resource management. They have invested in Bridge International an institution that is growing for-profit schools (now 38) in low-cost areas in Kenya at a student cost of $4 per month. They are primary investors but are looking for capital from Africa to invest, entrepreneurs with ventures, and partners who can bring expertise to the group.
  • George of Angels Finance spoke of a project he’s developing in Uganda where people can donate a portion of their phone airtime to charities – and he is seeking mentors, a bank to be the trustee, and developers to put it on phones
  • Brian (a co-founder of Seacom who recently stepped down) has founded Black Rhino which invests in infrastructure in Africa. He notes that such developments should have social inclusion, smart financing (governments should not put crippling liabilities on their balance sheet) and smarter (transformational) technology. They are seeking people with experience in social work, and environmental work, especially French-speaking ones.
  • James of Dahlberg talked about the long history of philanthropy in Africa. They want to identify and celebrate champions of philanthropy across Africa, map out high givers of interest, create a platform for collaboration, and acknowledge their efforts.
  • Arthur, the deputy prime minister of Zimbabwe, said that despite his background (McKinsey, MIT, Rhodes) he felt lonely as there were no other political leaders present. He urged ALN members to make sacrifices and take a plunge into politics, (become political gangsters) in order to be true continental leaders.

Don’t ignore Politics: This was underscored by another speaker Tutu Agyare who lamented that while most in the room were comfortable with big positions, or making money from foreign corporations, they had to take more risk to build their countries as they could do better jobs than the minister in our countries. Also, it was important to take more risks at a young age as you don’t have to be 70 years old to run an African country.

ALN Award The inaugural ALN Award was given to James Mwangi, the CEO of Equity Bank. He talked about the large price and sacrifices you have to make – like he did in 1992 when a mutual fund (Equity Building Society) in his village was about to be closed by the Central Bank (CBK) for insolvency (no funds, no trial balance for 3 years and other governance issues) and he was approached to intervene. He did, but the CBK Governor asked him to take over the society’s management as a condition to keep it going, and he foolishly did, going from a top bank job earning Kshs 400,000 to about Kshs 50,000, and with the added danger of losing his house which he had bought through the society.

He also talked about the need to have a belief in something like the society (now bank), not just an interest, to transform it from 2,000 to 7 million customers (more than the number of people who voted in Kenya’s presidential elections). Also, while success is not always celebrated, having a belief enables you to do things like persuading villagers to convert their society savings into investments in the society and they have been paid back to a point that the village Nyagatugu may be the richest rural village per capita in Africa.

He also mentioned the need to focus on innovation and use it to develop communities & societies. Equity is edging away from branch banking to mobile phones & agency banking model to a point that 40% of their transactions are being done by shopkeepers, as well as distribution of relief food funds in Kenya and they sell more policies than all insurance companies in Kenya. Also that next week, they will launch the first free transfer from the diaspora to the continent in partnership with MasterCard.

Talk from a King: The closing Keynote was given by King Kgosi Leruo Molotlegi II of the Royal Bafokeng Nation in South Africa.

Who’s the King? He’s a taxpayer, architect, and a trained pilot who’s worked with the SA air force and reads on culture & economies which helps him run a $4.5 billion fund. He said the issues that leaders face are universal, problems are generic and that prosperity is partly about finding the right formula, but mostly it’s about having the will to act and maintain a vision.

He spoke of the people of Bafokeng who migrated to their current homeland around the year 1450. Their then king forged a friendship with colonial leaders and noted the interest in their land and decided to obtain title to the land to avoid land grabs. Bafokeng citizens went to work in the Kimberly diamond mines, and portions of the money they earned was saved – and the King got help from a missionary who they asked to buy the land in his name and hold it in trust for the Bafokeng community.

Later in 1925, platinum was discovered under the land that the Bafokeng owned, and despite clashes over land rights with mining companies and the government, courts sided with the Bafokeng as genuine owners of their land. As such, they have derived income from mineral extraction for 60 – 70 years which has funded many of their expansion plans and brought wealth to the nation.

However they are aware of the resource curse and the challenges it brings such as population influx, crime, unmet expectation, social ills, complacency and corruption – for the nation of 150,000 people (in 29 villages) are something of an island of prosperity ($300 per month average income) in a sea of rural poverty.

The Kingdom has a Plan35, a detailed blueprint for the next quarter century (to 2035) and their portfolio is now 60% in mining, and 40% in property, communication oil gas – though holding firms, enterprises, education, and sports firms that ensure sustainability.

He was asked (and answered questions) about the supreme council of elected leaders who help run the state (are elected, and are now more representative with women and youth among them), welfare programs (dependence on the state), the need to develop entrepreneurship (a big challenge as there has not been an incentive to work for 70 years and some people have the mindset since everything is given to them) and communal land tenure (which is an obstacle to enabling people to obtain development loans).

State of the network: Acha Leke and Fred Swaniker spoke about ALN whose membership is now a mix of South Africa (25%), US/UK/Europe (17%) Nigeria (17%) Kenya (11%) and other countries but weak in Arab and Francophone Africa. It is also male, 28% female, and dominated by the private sector (heavily finance & consultancy) at 89%, and non-profits are 6%, against a goal of having 30% from the public sector.

In 2012 they will grow in the above areas that are missing, as it is not meant to be a business network, but a leadership one. They will target to have two events a month across Africa – regional gatherings, from which a lot of where membership tends to spring – next in Cairo, Dakar, Abidjan, and Luanda. Also, they will take a group of ALN leaders to visit China, and, after two years in Addis, Ethiopia, will have next year’s event at a new venue in Accra, Ghana.